Have you ever noticed how salty human skin is?
This helps us prevent skin infections much the same way, we would have itchy infected skin constantly without it.
Salt is one of the most widely used medications in freshwater tropical fishkeeping, but that doesn’t mean it’s used properly! While it can be very effective in certain situations, in the wrong situations salt can do more harm than good.
To keep betta are way healthier, vibrant and much less prone to diseases. Who uses salt? Uses 1 tsp per 5 gallons in all water to prevent outbreaks that could destroy many valuable fish. Many Thai breeders who already have a higher salinity in the water than tap water.
Salt for Betta
In The Cities, Most tap water has an extremely low level of salinity. The wild nature water in Thailand do not flow with tap water and once chlorine is gone via dechlorinator, it’s a party for bacteria in tap water. By adding aquarium salt we are actually recreating the betta’s natural habitat conditions. In Thailand natural environment of betta has a wide range of salinity, from very low to brackish depending on location or proximity to the Gulf of Thailand which is a salt water environment with fresh water flow. Thus betta have a high tolerance to salinity variance developed over millions of years. Most bad bacteria have little or no ability to adapt to changes in salinity and will literally burst cells causing death. Using aquarium salt should be considered if you like to keep your betta healthy. this can still be considered controversial, however through research and practical application the positives far outweigh the negatives if used properly. It is an inexpensive preventative that does not harm the beneficial bacteria in your tank or plants when used at the recommended dose. Aquarium salt does not contain iodine like table salt or trace mineral like sea salt.
As with any medication or means of medicating, please use caution and make sure you have a good handle and understanding of what you're doing before going through with the dip. As with any risky procedure, there is a chance for the fish to not get better, get worse, or die..
About the Salt
Many people think salt is salt? No, it comes in many forms. Iodized table salt can cause ammonia levels to rise then nitrites. This can cause major upsets in the aquariums biological filtration bed. Sodium Chloride does not dissipate, only water changes will remove salt. If you are using aquarium salt (NaCl) in your 20 gallon aquarium and you change 5 gallons of water you need ONLY add salt for the 5 gallons changed, not the 20 gallons of aquarium water otherwise your salt levels will build up with time. Its so many kind of salt, Which one? Let's talk about the salt we used for betta. There are two types of Salt:
Aquarium salt (sodium chloride; NaCl)
Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate; MgSO4·7H2O)
Aquarium salt
Table salt or common salt is a mineral composed primarily of sodium chloride (NaCl), a chemical compound belonging to the larger class of salts; salt in its natural form as a crysta lline mineral is known as rock salt or halite. Salt is present in vast quantities in seawater, where it is the main mineral constituent. The open ocean has about 35 grams (1.2 oz) of solids per litre, a salinity of 3.5%. The Best is processed from the evaporation of seawater (sea salt) with non-iodized. Aquarium Salt does quite a lot In freshwater, it can make water brackish (salty) for fish like mollies, can help fight off existing infections, prevent infections from coming back, can help parasites like Ich and Velvet not "stick" to fish, help ease fin rot, help heal wounds, and help ease columnairs along with other medicines. Aquarium Salt is super versatile and easily the least expensive, most widely effective medicine you can buy. It means you can heal things from fin rot to parasites to wounds. That's a big deal, especially when these ailments tend to come on fast and need prompt treatment to be kept from being deadly.
Aquarium Salt:
Aid in the control of many parasitic and pathogen populations including Ich and velvet.
Enhance the fish ability to produce a good protective slime coat. Very helpful if the fish is recovering from a bacterial infection, injury, torn or bitten fins and often fin rot.
Prevent intake of lethal nitrates during nitrogen cycling of a new tank.
Prevent intake of stressful high nitrates in existing cycled aquariums.
Lessen the fish stress levels by aiding the gill function. Fish kidneys are designed to excrete water absorbed through the skin and gills. This is a major and important job. By adding aquarium salt the fish kidneys do less work because the amount of water absorbed into the blood via the gills is reduced.
Adds needed electrolytes to the water. Osmoregulation is basically the maintaining of a proper fluid-electrolyte balance in the body fluids of fish. Osmosis is the tendency of water to travel through a semi-permeable membrane from an area of high electrolyte concentration. Why is this important to the fish? First of all, blood and body fluids contain several electrolytes. For ease in discussion, we will say salts. The concentration of salts in the body fluid of freshwater fish is much higher than their surrounding water. A fishes’ gills are a perfect example of semi-permeable membrane. Water from the outside wants to go through the gills- to inside- and does, in large quantities. If this went on unchecked, the internal body fluids of the fish would become severely diluted and suffer an intolerable electrolyte loss through elimination. Freshwater fish deal with this problem in several ways. When there is plenty of oxygen in the water, they cut down on respiration and cut water influx through the gills. (This is one area where low dissolved oxygen can cause a fish a lot of problems). The other way fish deal with this problem is through cells clustered around the base of their gill filaments. These are called chloride cells. These cells require energy from the fish to work. They can transport sodium and chloride ions (against the flow, so to speak) from the water outside, to the blood inside. This replaces electrolytes lost by the production of the large amount of urine excreted. If there is too little sodium and too few chloride ions in the water, the chloride cells must work too hard to do their job, which causes more stress on the fish.
The un-ionised form of the ammonium ion (NH3) is the most toxic. The toxicity of ammonia to aquatic life is affected by the following physico-chemical parameters: temperature, pH, dissolved oxygen and salinity. In general, ammonia toxicity is greater, the higher the temperature and pH and the lower the levels of dissolved oxygen and salinity.
At high concentrations like 1-3 tablespoons per gallon, aquarium salt can keep nets and gravel vacuums from spreading pathogens tank to tank. Keep a separate bucket at high salinity for any equipment that is shared in the fish room. The concentration of the salt is based on intent.
As a general rule of thumb start with 1 tablespoon per 5-7 gallons of aquarium water. This is a safe dose for all fish and plants including salt sensitive corydoras. Some betta keepers only use aquarium salt as a general tonic or preventative. Others use it at higher concentrations to treat for existing parasites, but remember it is not a cure all and can be combined with other things like methylene blue or antibiotics outside of the aquarium in a fish bath to treat stubborn or difficult pathogens. If treating an existing problem the use of high concentration via fish bath should only be done outside the aquarium in a container and last only minutes. You may have read that aquarium salt will cause issues with kidney and liver. This is only true if used at a high level for a prolonged period of time which is never recommended.
Bacteria and parasites do not gain resistance to salt like they can with antibiotics. The benefits are many but there are drawbacks to consider. Live plants can be killed if concentrations are too high as well as corydoras and Chinese algae eaters so try to stay at the recommended levels if using in the aquarium. Bottom feeding fish can adjust to a low dose salt level if salt is slowly added over a few days. Avoid dumping all the salt at one time and always pre dissolve the salt before adding especially if the tank has salt sensitive species.
For Aquarium Salt, you can use 1 TABLEspoon per gallon of water (3 TEAspoons).
This mixture is reported as considerably more dangerous and more uncomfortable for the fish, so it will have less time than Epsom dips. Dip the fish for 5-8 minutes, depending on severity (for example, fin rot less, columnaris and ich more). Do not exceed this time!
Acclimate your fish for 2-3 minutes. This time frame is less than Epsom because we do not want the fish to be further exposed to higher doses of salt for too much longer after the bath.
Epsom Salt
Epsom Salt is magnesium sulfate, which you may know as a saline (salt) laxative or a remedy to reduce swelling for humans. It is easily found nearly anywhere, often in first aid aisles and even in gas stations! Please note that humans use Epsom as a means to relax when infused into bathwater, so sometimes it has dyes or is scented. Please only use unscented, undyed Epsom when medicating your fish.
Epsom has a bunch of uses. Not surprisingly, its uses in fish are very similar to its uses in humans. When used properly in fish, it can act as a laxative as well as a means to reduce swelling. If used correctly in fish that have swim bladder disorder (SBD), epsom can help them swim better and even be able to sink.
These qualities mean you can help a bloated or constipated fish expel backed up waste and feel good again, as well as reduce swelling that may be caused by disease or infection. The swelling Epsom can assist with includes: popeye, external wound infection swelling, and in some cases relieve pressure from dropsy.
Increasing Water Hardness
Epsom salt may be used to increase water hardness in freshwater aquariums. Harder water contains more dissolved magnesium and calcium than soft water. Some species of fish require hard water, while others require soft. The degree of hardness impacts the tank's pH. Hard water is more alkaline, soft water is more acidic. Water hardness is expressed in the amount of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) it contains. According to Aquatic Community, "adding 1 milliliter of [epsom salt] per 10 liters of water will increase the permanent hardness by roughly 70 mg/L CaCO3." Determine the optimum pH and water hardness levels for the type of fish in your aquarium before altering your tank's chemistry. Abrupt shifts in pH levels can stress, even kill fish. Avoid a change in pH greater than 0.3 in a 24-hour period.
Epsom Salt for Constipation in Bettas
Constipation is a common condition suffered by many types of fish, including bettas. Symptoms include belly bloat and loss of appetite. Constipation is usually caused by overfeeding or feeding a low-fiber diet. Stop feeding a fish with this condition for 24 to 48 hours. If you don't see improvement, offer the fish tiny pieces of the inside of one fresh or frozen pea -- canned peas are too salty. If the fish shows no improvement, consider giving him an Epsom salt bath, which acts as a muscle relaxant. To give your fish an Epsom salt bath, pour half of the tank's water into a clean container. Add 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt for every 1 gallon of water. Have the fish swim in the solution for 15 to 30 minutes. Remove the fish promptly and return him to his aquarium if he appears stressed or relieves himself.
Epsom Salt for Treating Dropsy
Dropsy is a potentially fatal condition in which the kidneys of a fish fail, leading to fluid retention. A fish experiencing dropsy has a bloated abdomen and raised scales. Epsom salt may be used as part of dropsy treatment by isolating the sick fish in a separate "hospital" tank, then adding Epsom salt at a rate of 1/8 teaspoon for every 5 gallons of water. The Epsom salt will relieve swelling. She also suggests feeding the fish a special diet containing antibiotics. Never use aquarium salt, or any other type of sodium, to treat a fish with dropsy: It may worsen the condition.
Epsom Salt for Swim Bladder Disorder
Swim bladder disorder can strike all freshwater fish, but goldfish are especially prone to develop it. Fish with this condition have difficulty swimming upright because the swim bladder, which is normally filled with air, is compromised. Swim bladder disorder may be caused by gulping too much air, impacted eggs, infection, or constipation. Treat swim bladder disorder by skipping feedings for two to three days, then feeding a de-skinned pea. If that doesn't help, increase the tank's water temperature to between 78 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit and add Epsom salt at a rate of 1/8 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water.
For Epsom, you use 1 TABLEspoon (TBSP) per gallon of water. This is three TEAspoons (TSP).
In Epsom, the betta should stay in for 10-15 minutes, with 10 being less severe need and 15 being a more severe need. Never exceed this time!
Acclimate your fish for 2-5 minutes before going back to avoid shock.
When to Use Salt
As you can tell by their technical names, they're not the same! their functions aren't the same, either. It is very important to know what both can do for your fish, and when to use them. Nitrite Poisoning: The addition of a one-half ounce of salt per gallon of water is beneficial in the prevention of nitrate poisoning in a newly set up tank. Keep in mind that scaleless fish cannot tolerate much if any, salt.
Parasites: Many parasites can be effectively treated with the use of salt, particularly Costia infestations.
*Avoid* Live plants: If you live plants in your aquarium, avoid using salt. Plants can be damaged with a relatively low dosage of salt, which is one reason it's best to treat sick fish in a hospital tank rather than your regular tank.
Scaleless fish: Scaleless fish, particularly Corydoras, are very sensitive to salt. Even a small amount could harm them. Tetras are also somewhat sensitive to salt.
How use
Salt concentrations
Salinity is the concentration of salt in a given sample of water. Sometimes salinity will be given in parts per thousand (ppt) and sometimes in grams per liter (g/l), but for all practical purposes the two are interchangeable. So if a concentration of 5 ppt is required, that’s the same thing as adding 5 grams of salt to each liter of water. Some aquarists may prefer to avoid the metric system, but unfortunately there isn’t a neat conversion between parts per thousand and ounces per gallon. There are however approximately 4 liters per US gallon and 28 grams per ounce, so if the required dosage is 5 ppt, that’s 5 grams per liter, and therefore 4 x 5 = 20 grams per US gallon, and that in turn works out as 20/28 = 0.7 ounces per US gallon. One level teaspoon of salt contains weighs about 6 grams or 0.2 ounces, so it is possible, with care, to measure out salt using teaspoons. However, once a box of salt is opened it absorbs moisture from the air making this approach unreliable unless the box of salt is stored in a dry, airtight container between uses. A salt dip may sound scary when proposed as a solution to an ailing fish, but it's really not that spooky. A salt dip can help your fish shake of disease or imbalances in ways that other means of medicating cannot.
Prepare dip for your fish:
Fill your gallon container very fully with clean, treated water. Make sure the water is the same temperature as the water the fish came from in its tank via the thermometer. This prevents temperature shock.
Add the salt per recommendation and stir it until it is fully dissolved.
Get a second container with 1/4 salted water like your 1 gallon tank, and the rest (3/4) with tank water (this is the "reviving station").
Carefully get your fish from its home and gently put it into the water. You must make sure that the fish does not pass out! You can tell if a fish has conked out if it is no longer breathing (look at its gills, by the eyes) or if it lists to the side and becomes still. It may knock out due to the sudden change in salinity (saltiness) of the water, but can be revived.
*If the fish passes out or becomes extremely stressed, remove it! Carefully but hastily put the fish into your reviving station to revive. Then, put it into its home again and try the dip another time.
If the fish is not super stressed and does not pass out, be very attentive during the recommended time in the dip as the fish may jump due to discomfort or stress. Pay close attention to how long the fish has been in the dip and do not exceed the time!
Once the fish is finished, put it into the reviving station to adjust back to more normal water parameters. Then, without pouring the salty water into your tank, put the fish back into its home to recover.
For dips, a 3% solution is generally used for up to a half hour.
Baths are essentially treating the entire tank, and are useful for the treatment of stress, nitrite poisoning, as well as some parasites. Salt concentrations for a bath are lower, 1% or less, and are used for up to three weeks.
A bath is not as strong as a dip. If your issues are less severe, a bath is a better choice as it has less salt involved and is comparably safer. and we don't want to overexpose the fish to the dose any longer than needed. It seems against what is normally considered super important, but in this case, would be harmful.
Bloating
In short, your fish needs to pass fluids and water. Aquarium Salt would hinder this and retain, but Epsom allows this to passing through to happen.
Whitespot and velvet
Salt has long been a popular treatment for whitespot and velvet. On the whole it is a safe therapy and a good choice for use with fish that react badly to commercial medications. Copper and formalin are both widely used in commercial whitespot and velvet medications but are known to stress, even kill, sensitive fish such as loaches, puffers, knifefish, stingrays and some catfish. The usual approach is to dose at about 2-3 ppt, or approximately 0.3-0.4 oz/gallon; that’s about 2 level teaspoons per US gallon. At the same time the aquarium temperature should be raised to between 82-86 degrees F. If the tank is kept warm and salty like this for two weeks, whitespot infestations are usually killed off quickly. Velvet is more stubborn and a longer period of time is normally required, as its complete darkness to prevent the free-living stages photosynthesizing. Fungus and finrot
Unlike the situation with whitespot and velvet, salt is not a useful treatment against external bacterial infections. Infected fish should be treated using commercial antibacterial and antibiotic medications. The same largely holds true for fungal infections, though fungal infections are very uncommon in marine and brackish water aquaria.
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